Zagreb: A Whistle-Stop Between Budapest and Split

Zagreb was never really the destination — more of a welcome pause between Budapest and Split. Rather than grinding through an overnight journey with a few cramped hours on a coach, I decided to break it up properly. That meant cancelling my original bus booking (thankfully Flixbus still gave me a partial refund and credit to rebook), splitting the trip into two legs, and giving myself a proper night's sleep in between. The plan was simple: arrive at the bus station by evening, check into somewhere nearby, do a quick two-hour sweep of the city centre in the morning, and be back at the station for my 11am bus to Split. Simple in theory. A little ambitious in practice.

Arriving & Getting Around

I pulled into Zagreb's main bus station around 8pm. There are a few shops around the station but don't expect a buzzing food scene — it's not the city centre. I grabbed a snack and picked up some pastries for breakfast from a nearby bakery before heading to find my accommodation. The accommodation I'd booked through Booking.com was close to the station, which was exactly the point, but finding it in the dark while dragging luggage through an estate was a different matter. It felt a bit isolated and, honestly, a little intimidating arriving alone at that hour. Fortunately my host was brilliant — I called them when I got lost and they guided me straight to the door. Lesson learned: always have your host's contact details handy and make sure your phone plan covers international calls for exactly this kind of moment.

In the morning I woke up refreshed — which was the whole point of the stopover. After packing and 'checking out' (note: Croatian Airbnb-style accommodations require you to submit a passport photo to the host, so factor that in) it was around 9am, leaving me two hours to actually see something of Zagreb.

I hopped on the tram just opposite the main bus station. Small problem: I hadn't sorted a ticket. There was no option to pay on board and no machine in sight, so I spent an embarrassing amount of time panicking, Googling, and trying to download a payment app — when really I should have just asked someone. By the time I'd figured it out, we'd already arrived at King Tomislav Square. Since I was not too sure of the ticket payment app, I decided to walk from there to Ban Jelačić Square, the city's central square, rather than risk another ticketless tram. The walk took about 10–15 minutes and took me past the stunning Art Pavilion and through Zrinjevac Park, which was a lovely bonus.

From the central square I wanted to push a little further and get up to St Mark's Church in the Upper Town. It's all uphill, but I lucked onto Bus 150. The driver waved me on without asking for a ticket — whether he didn't take cash or was just being generous, I'm still not sure. The church itself was beautiful, though closed to entry. And by that point, time was up.

I missed my tram back to the station and ended up grabbing an Uber for about €4 — a small price to pay for the sprint that followed: collect luggage, get to the bus, don't miss it. Spoiler: I made it.

Where to Stay & What It'll Cost

If you're using Zagreb as a transit stop, staying near the bus station makes sense. I booked a private one-bed apartment through Booking.com for £53 — there are cheaper hostel options if you're not fussed about privacy. Here's what the full stopover cost me:

• Bus from Budapest (one-way): £38 — Flixbus

• Accommodation (1 night): £53 — Booking.com

• Getting around: £4

• Food (bakery/pastries): £2

• Total: £97

Croatia uses Euros, so it's worth having some cash on you, though card was accepted without issue at the bakery — which seems pretty standard across Croatia.

A Few Tips Before You Go

Croatia's rail network is limited, so the bus is usually your best (and cheapest) option for getting between cities. Flights exist but the price difference rarely justifies it, especially for shorter hops.

On the transport ticketing front — there are kiosks and apps available for Zagreb's trams and buses, but I didn't get a proper handle on it in the time I had.

One more thing: Flixbus won't always announce toilet breaks in advance, and onboard toilets are sealed shut, so go easy on the drinks before boarding.

Final Thought

Two hours in Zagreb absolutely does not do it justice. I caught a glimpse — a park, a square, a hilltop church — and it was enough to know there's a proper city worth exploring here. But sometimes a transit stop that gives you a good night's sleep, a pastry, and a few unexpected detours is exactly what a long trip needs. Check out the next post for the onward journey to Split, and the resources page if you're planning your own route through Eastern Europe.